Whistle stop at Cook. A chance to briefly stretch the legs and to enjoy firm ground beneath the feet.
The leisurely run into Perth this morning was a revelation. How could such a change in countryside happen overnight? From red to green while I was sleeping; from arid to quenched. We run alongside the Avon for a while, kayaks at intervals on the banks in preparation for the up-coming race. The rapids appear lethal after so much good rain, but kayakers are nothing if not game.
Into Perth along the Avon Valley.
Reunited with Camel, I was happy to tag along with Roslyn (one of many lovely people I had met in Adelaide and on the train), a WA local who led the way out of the metropolis and waved me off towards Bindoon as she headed toward the coast. I must say, the traffic was well behaved in Perth, with no roaring away at traffic lights and no ‘cutting in’. I felt a little less apprehensive at the prospect of my return next week.
Camel took on a great deal of water at Bindoon, in preparation for the long, high-speed run to Mount Magnet. Soon all the lush green, and the countless acres of wheat and canola (rape) are behind and pink and red earth and grey-green mulga is the go. No difficulties navigating now. In long-range cruise, Camel had been returning 7.8 litres to 100kms or better, but this was high-speed cruising and the best was 8.2/100 kms. I dare not drive slower, for an overtaking road train is a terrifying event.
The landscape of my memory hasn’t changed. I sometimes find my memory has played tricks on me. What I remember as red might, in fact, have been pink. Not so today. This red earth and blue sky were every bit as richly coloured as I remembered. It’s 44 years since I last passed this way… and I am as infatuated by this landscape now as I ever was.
The sun had just set as I drove into the township. I found my accommodation: a basic (but affordable) single man’s donga. Very basic, but it has everything, including a tv, the remote control for which didn’t function – hardly surprising considering the two AA batteries contained therein had melted down to a nasty mess.
The towel is huge, thick and fluffy, the water hot and plentiful, the kettle (thankfully) very fast. The bed a tad lumpy, but who cares? I am exhausted and it will take more than a lump in the mattress to keep me awake.